The Santos 100 is the big, confident member of the Santos family. It was introduced in 2004 to mark a hundred years of the Santos, and it wears its strap differently from the watches that came before and after it. If you own one, you have probably discovered that an ordinary strap will not do: the strap has no buckle holes, both halves are the same length, and it meets a folding clasp in the middle.
This guide explains how a Santos 100 strap is built, which sizes exist, and what I need to know before I make one.
What makes a Santos 100 strap different
- It is made for a butterfly clasp. The original Cartier clasp opens on both sides and sits in the centre of the strap. The strap therefore has two equal halves and no row of holes.
- It is not a QuickSwitch strap. QuickSwitch belongs to the current Santos. A strap made for one will not fit the other. If you have the newer watch, see the Cartier Santos leather strap guide and the QuickSwitch strap guide.
- It is built around its own end piece. The strap is made on a dedicated Santos 100 end piece. A pin passes through the end piece to attach the strap to the watch. The pins are not supplied with the strap: you reuse the pins from your watch.
- It is wide at the case and slim in profile. The lugs of the Santos 100 are broad, so the strap is wide where it meets the watch, but it is kept thin so that it folds cleanly into the clasp.
Sizes: M and XL
I make the Santos 100 strap for two case sizes. The lug width is set by the case, so you only need to choose your model in the configurator.
| Case size | Lug width |
|---|---|
| M | 20 mm |
| XL | 23 mm |
If you are not sure which case you have, measure the inside distance between the lugs, as described in how to measure lug width, or send me the reference from the caseback.
Strap length
Because the clasp sits in the middle, both sides of the strap are the same length. The configurator offers three:
| Strap size | Each side |
|---|---|
| 115/115 | 115 mm |
| 120/120 | 120 mm |
| 125/125 | 125 mm |
The easiest way to choose is to measure the strap you are replacing, each half from the case end to the tip. If that strap fits you well, order the same length. If you have no strap to measure, send me your wrist circumference and I will recommend one. The reasoning behind strap lengths is explained in how to choose the right strap length.
The clasp
The strap is made for the original Cartier butterfly deployant clasp. It is not made for a pin (tang) buckle: there are no holes, and the ends are shaped for the clasp.
The strap is supplied without a clasp. You keep and reuse your original Cartier clasp. If your watch came without one, or you want to use a different clasp, please write to me before ordering.
Thickness and proportion
The Santos 100 strap is made at approximately 1.5 to 1.8 mm. That is thinner than the straps for the current Santos, and deliberately so: a thinner strap folds neatly through the butterfly clasp and sits flat under the wrist, while the width at the lugs keeps the strap in proportion with the large case.
Leather and colour
The Santos 100 strap is made in shiny alligator, polished to a gloss that suits the broad polished bezel of the watch. You choose the colour, the lining (Zermatt leather or a goat leather in the colour of your choice) and the thread colour for the hand stitching.
If you are weighing up the finish, matte vs shiny alligator explains how each behaves on the wrist. If you would like the strap in a leather or finish that is not listed, ask: every strap is made to order.
Explore Cartier Santos 100 straps →
Before you order
- Case size: M (20 mm) or XL (23 mm).
- Clasp: confirm you have the original Cartier butterfly clasp.
- Pins: keep the pins from your current strap or bracelet; they are reused.
- Length: 115/115, 120/120 or 125/125, ideally measured from your current strap.
- Colour, lining and thread.
Each strap is made to order and usually takes 3 to 5 weeks before dispatch. If anything about your watch is unusual, send me the reference and a photo of the clasp, and I will confirm the fit before the leather is cut.
