A handmade strap is cut for one watch and one wrist. Three measurements decide the fit: the lug width at the case, the strap length, and the buckle width at the clasp. This page explains each one and lists the sizes I make for the watches in Shop by Watch.

If you are unsure about any measurement, send me your watch reference and your wrist circumference before ordering. I will confirm the sizes with you before the leather is cut.

1. Lug width

Lug width is the inside distance between the lugs of your watch, in millimetres. It is also the width of the strap where it meets the case. Measure it with a calliper or ruler between the inner faces of the lugs, or across the end of a strap that already fits your watch.

A difference of one millimetre is visible on the wrist, so please do not round your measurement. The full explanation is in How to measure watch strap lug width.

2. Strap length

Strap length is written as two numbers in millimetres: the long side, which carries the holes, and the short side, which carries the buckle. A 120/80 strap has a 120 mm long side and an 80 mm short side. Neither figure includes the watch case.

Size Long / short side
XS 100/60 mm
S 110/70 mm (105/65 mm on some models)
M 115/75 mm
L 120/80 mm
XL 125/85 mm
XXL 130/90 mm

Straps for a butterfly (double folding) clasp have two equal sides, for example 115/115, 120/120 or 125/125 mm, because the clasp sits in the middle of the strap.

The available sizes depend on the watch; each product page shows the sizes for that model. These sizes are a starting point, not a rule. Wrist shape, case size and how you like to wear a watch all play a part.

The easiest way to choose a length

  • Measure a strap you already like. Lay it flat and measure each side from the end at the case to the tip (long side) and to the buckle bar (short side). This is the most reliable method.
  • Or measure your wrist. Wrap a soft tape or a strip of paper around your wrist where you wear your watch, and send me the figure with your watch reference. I will recommend a length.

3. Buckle width

Buckle width is the width of the strap at its narrow end, where it meets the buckle or folding clasp. It is usually narrower than the lug width, and it must match your buckle or clasp exactly. Measure the inside width of your buckle, or the end of a strap that fits it.

If you will use your original buckle or deployant clasp, choose it in the configurator and I will size the buckle end to suit.

Sizes by watch

Watch Lug width Buckle width Strap lengths Clasp
Cartier Santos (WSSA, QuickSwitch) Set by case size: Medium or Large Set by clasp 115/75, 120/80 (Cartier standard), 125/85; 120/120 for butterfly clasp Deployant or butterfly clasp
Cartier Santos 100 M case 20 mm, XL case 23 mm Set by clasp 115/115, 120/120, 125/125 Original Cartier butterfly clasp only
Cartier Santos-Dumont Small 15.5 mm, Large 17.8 mm, Extra Large 19 mm 14, 16 or 18 mm 105/65 to 125/85 Pin buckle or deployant clasp
Cartier Tank 16 to 20 mm (up to 23 mm in large grain alligator) 14 to 18 mm (10 to 22 mm in large grain alligator) 100/60 to 130/90; 110/110 Pin buckle or deployant clasp
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 20 or 22 mm 16 or 18 mm 105/65 to 125/85 Pin buckle or deployant clasp
Citizen Zenshin Confirmed with you for your reference For the supplied steel buckle 100/60 to 130/90 Pin buckle

Watches with integrated or custom strap ends, such as the Santos, Santos-Dumont and Code 11.59, need more than a width. For these, I make the strap end for the model, and for the Code 11.59 I ask you to confirm your reference before ordering.

Thickness

Thickness is set for each watch so the strap balances the case. As a guide, the straps are made at approximately:

  • Santos 100: 1.5 to 1.8 mm
  • Santos-Dumont: 1.6 to 2.0 mm
  • Cartier Tank: 1.8 to 2.0 mm
  • Santos (QuickSwitch) and Citizen Zenshin: 2.0 to 2.2 mm
  • Audemars Piguet Code 11.59: 2.0 to 2.5 mm

Not sure? Ask before you order

Every strap is made to order, so I would always rather confirm a measurement than guess it. Send me your watch reference, your lug width if you know it, your wrist circumference and, for unusual cases, a photo of the watch from the side.

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